The Lhotse Face is proving to be a major challenge this season. The initial route has proven to be too dangerous due to extensive rock and ice fall down the climbing line. Therefore, a team led primarily by IMG’s resources is looking for a new way up the steep face. We hope to shift to the climber’s right (or to the South) of the current line to one that was used in 1990 and also by the 1953 team. If successful, we will be able to continue up the mountain to Camps III and IV as planned. Again, please keep your fingers crossed for us. Hopefully, the new route can be identified and set over the next couple of days. No guarantees but we’re hopeful.
The plan for my climbing team is to head back up for rotation II on Thursday, May 3rd. I’ll push straight to Camp II (21,200′) in one big push from base camp (17,500′), rest on May 4th, climb up the Lhotse Face to Camp III (24,500′) on the 5th, descend to Camp II on the 6th and then to base camp on the 7th. Hopefully, the fixed lines to Camp III will be in place and we’ll proceed as planned. This rotation is really the trial run for us for the summit push in a couple of weeks. If all goes well and conditions/weather allow, we could be on our way for our summit bid around May 15th. Time will tell. Thanks for all your well wishes! Rest assured we’re doing all we can on this end to give the summit a good run soon…
Great getting the updates from up there and keeping informed of the progress of you and the team. Glad to hear that you are fit and healthly and tghinking of you all.
We have been enjoying reading all of your posts, and hope the conditions are in your favor for the summit bid. Sounds like you are feeling good and strong!!!!! The Coohill’s cheering for you every step of the way, and have a huge beer waiting for you at your favorite seat at our bar!
Jim, I’m keeping my fingers crossed for u guys and sending u positive energy and favorable weather conditions. I hope it works 🙂 I read abt Cory’s evacuation and it’s so scary. I’m just glad to see everyone from IMG is doing well. RAMIN IS MY HERO!!! Also read about the avalanches, jezus, it’s so dangerous out there. Anyhow, u and the team r in my thoughts and I wish u guys the best of luck with the next rotation. MUAH!
Good vibes are being sent your way. A couple more weeks the conditions are going to be just right, new route in place and you’ll be good to go! Best of luck to you and your team!