Waiting Game Continues – 5.1.2012

The Lhotse Face is proving to be a major challenge this season.  The initial route has proven to be too dangerous due to extensive rock and ice fall down the climbing line.  Therefore, a team led primarily by IMG’s resources is looking for a new way up the steep face.  We hope to shift to the climber’s right (or to the South) of the current line to one that was used in 1990 and also by the 1953 team.  If successful, we will be able to continue up the mountain to Camps III and IV as planned.  Again, please keep your fingers crossed for us.  Hopefully, the new route can be identified and set over the next couple of days.  No guarantees but we’re hopeful.

The plan for my climbing team is to head back up for rotation II on Thursday, May 3rd.  I’ll push straight to Camp II (21,200′) in one big push from base camp (17,500′), rest on May 4th, climb up the Lhotse Face to Camp III (24,500′) on the 5th, descend to Camp II on the 6th and then to base camp on the 7th.  Hopefully, the fixed lines to Camp III will be in place and we’ll proceed as planned.  This rotation is really the trial run for us for the summit push in a couple of weeks.  If all goes well and conditions/weather allow, we could be on our way for our summit bid around May 15th.  Time will tell.  Thanks for all your well wishes!  Rest assured we’re doing all we can on this end to give the summit a good run soon…