We made it to the Taj Mahal yesterday despite the 4+ hour drive to Agra each way from Delhi in the craziest traffic I’ve witnessed. These drivers are all insane. We saw a woman completely take out a motorcyclist with her car and then get hit herself, a family of FIVE on one moped, trained monkeys doing flips for money at busy intersections, among many other colorful scenes. Quite a drive. Fortunately, the Taj Mahal did not disappoint and was worth the exciting journey down India’s “highways.” We went to Akbar’s tomb, who was the grandfather of Shah Jahan, who in turn built the Taj for his beloved third wife after she died giving birth to their 14th child. Later Shah Jahan was overthrown by one of his sons from this fruitful marriage and was jailed at Red Fort where he stared across the river at the Taj Mahal mourning his long-past wife for the rest of his days. Tough family… we visited Red Fort as well as the Taj during our time in Agra. More pictures available by clicking the one above. The highlight of the day, though, may have been when a nice Indian girl asked if she could have her picture taken with me because I look like Tom Cruise. I guess all us white guys look alike over here. Tom Cruise though? Couldn’t I at least get a Matt Damon or Brad Pitt. Something in the ballpark. Carla received an Angelina Jolie though, so I think she was pretty content with that…
Author Archives: jwalkley
Delhi, India – 3.18.2012
We arrived in India late on Saturday night after a long but mostly uneventful travel day, although the screaming child on the Newark to New Delhi flight was nearly record-breaking. Who knew a child could actually scream for 13+ hours straight?!? I certainly remained contentedly naive to this fact until yesterday. Live and learn as they say. After a sound night of sleep, we spent today touring Delhi and seeing the sights. It is a beautiful, humble, receptive, inviting, delicious, warm, fragrant, humid, friendly, crowded place. So far, it meets or even exceeds expectations. Tomorrow we are off to Agra to see the Taj Mahal, which was built by Shah Jahan as a memorial to his 3rd wife who died giving birth to her 14th child. So, this mausoleum from the mid-1600s was certainly well-deserved. More pictures from our day in Delhi available by clicking the picture above. Namaste.
Final Preparations – 3.14.2012
So, this is apparently all it takes to climb to the highest point on earth (29,035′). A few sleeping bags (including a walking one — that down suit weighs more than my -20 degree down sleeping bag), some bars/blocks/Gu, a few warm layers, lots of suntan lotion (I have a bottle rated to 110 spf, which should even protect this pale climber), big boots, crampons, ice axe, some technical gear, backpack, etc. All gear has been checked, double-checked and triple-checked. I’ve done all the training I can do. I’m in the best shape of my adult life. I feel I’ve put myself in the best position possible to succeed. I have many good friends, either joining for the trek into base camp and the acclimatization climb of 20,161′ Lobuche (Ben and Clay) or the full climb to the 29,035′ summit of Everest (Bob, Craig, Dave, and Remza), who will be watching my back and I theirs. I guess it’s finally time to just go climb this thing!
Again, thank you to all who have reached out with well wishes and the like. I appreciate all of the heart-felt sentiments and I know that your support will help me make it to the summit (and back) safely. As Ed Viesturs says, ” it has to be a round trip,” and I intend to make sure that’s the case. The full itinerary for my 11-week journey is at left. Days will inevitably shift around depending upon weather, conditions, health, etc., but this is a rough outline of what we’ll be doing over there and why it takes 6-9 weeks to climb to the highest point on earth. Just click the itinerary at left and you’ll be able to read it/print it out if you so desire. I’ll try to publish updates to this blog here and there along the trail, but you can also check out the blog for International Mountain Guides (IMG), which is the outfitter I’m using for this expedition, and they will update our movements, etc., especially when we’re up high going for the summit. That blog can be found at:
www.mountainguides.com/everest-south12.shtml
That’s about it. Thanks all. I hope to be looking down on all of you (physically not metaphorically) in about 9 weeks! All my best, and, as always, I hope our paths soon cross and until then yours is the good life. Take care of yourselves and each other, live each day to the fullest, share a laugh with friends and strangers alike, and most importantly… Keep Smilin’!
Mt. Everest (29,035′)

Courtesy of http://www.alanarnette.com © reproduction prohibited without authorization
At left is a great photo of the South Side (a.k.a. Southeast Ridge or South Col) route that we’ll be taking up the Khumbu Glacier, the Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm, the Lhotse Face to the South Col and on to iconic features like the Balcony, South Summit, Hillary Step, Summit Ridge and the Summit itself (29,035′), some of which are captured in the picture below of the route on the very upper mountain above The Balcony. You can see a much larger view of each by clicking the pictures. This is the same route that Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay first ascended in 1953. This comes from Alan Arnette’s excellent website, which has a ton of great information on it about the route including detailed pictures, etc. and can be found at:
http://www.alanarnette.com/everest/everestsouthroutes.php
As I complete my preparations for the trip, I updated my LinkedIn profile since I am no longer at IXI/Equifax and stumbled across this interesting fact as I updated my “current job” to reflect my attempt of Mt. Everest and completion of the eight “Seven Summits“:
According to Wikipedia (if you can believe everything you read online): “As of January 2010, approximately 275 climbers climbed all seven of the peaks from either the Bass or the Messner list; about 30% of those have climbed all of the eight peaks required to complete both lists.” So, if successful on this expedition, I would fall into the latter category of ~100 people that have successfully climbed all 8 peaks. Pretty crazy. The eight “Seven Summits” include:
– Mount Everest (Asia) – TBD
– Carstensz Pyramid (Oceania/Papua) – 3/6/2011 (Reinhold Messner list)
– Mount Kosciuszko (Australia) – 2/21/2011 (Dick Bass list)
– Kilimanjaro (Africa) – 7/19/2010
– Mount Vinson (Antarctica) – 1/21/2008
– Mount Elbrus (Europe) – 7/20/2006
– Denali (North America) – 6/12/2004
– Aconcagua (South America) – 12/31/2000
Kids of the Khumbu Part II
We have collected 150+ lbs (and counting with more on the way) of donated clothing, school supplies, and medical/dental supplies for the kids of the Khumbu Valley (with still more to come in and get packed up). It looks like we’ll have at least three of the largest available duffel bags full of donated items. A huge thank you to all that donated and made this possible. These items will go a long, long way in supporting the kids in the Khumbu Valley — one of the poorest regions of one of the poorest countries in Asia (only Afghanistan has a lower per capita GDP), where per capita annual income is ~$1,200. Good karma coming your way for sure!
Chutes & Ladders – 3.7.2012
I headed up to Bob’s place in Fourmile Canyon, above Boulder (a.k.a. The Hinters) for some time in the mountains and to get in a little practice time on the ladders prior to heading into the Khumbu Icefall and we’re playing for keeps. Fortunately, our basic rigging system worked great and it was a lot easier walking across the rungs while wearing crampons, even as the ladders bowed and swayed, than I anticipated. At this point, I’ve done all I can to prep for the trip, so it must be time to just go do it! Soon enough…
We also did a quick trip up Bald Mountain, which is literally Bob’s backyard, with his buddy Cam and the dogs (Wilson and Bridger) in tow. It was a quick day out and only ~1,500′ of vertical, but we had some deep snow to plow through at times and terrific views from the top. More pictures available of our quick outing by clicking on the picture above.
I did another round of the Boulder Trifectra climbs the other day with Bob and we’ll be heading up to attempt 13,000′ Mt. Bancroft on Sunday. That will likely be my last big training day in the mountains prior to departure next Friday, 3/16. The trip is getting extraordinarily close. Pretty amazing it’s here already. Lots to do between now and then, but I feel very physically strong and ready to take on this challenge!
Boulder Trifecta – 3.1.2012
A quick thank you to those of you that generously donated items for us to take to Nepal. Your generosity is very much appreciated. We’ll be sure to bring back some good karma for you.
I spent today in the high country above Boulder and completed what is sometimes referred to as the Boulder Trifecta, which entails summiting Bear Peak (8,461′), South Boulder Peak (8,549′) and Green Mountain (8,144′). They’re all straightforward ascents with good elevation gain, so I threw 40+ lbs in my pack to increase the training benefits and headed uphill. It was a bit blustery and snowy throughout the day, but nice and quiet as I had the hills almost exclusively to myself. It was a good 6-hour push, covering 10 miles and ~4,500′ of vertical gain.
I’ve been trying to hit the hills frequently as of late, although the CO high-country remains really unstable with lots of new snow and high risk of avalanche, so I’ve been sticking to these lower elevation climbs in the Boulder area. Carla and I did Green Mountain last weekend (pictures available by clicking the above photo) and I’ll be doing the same Boulder Trifecta this coming Sunday with my buddy, Bob.
Kids of the Khumbu
Recognizing what an extraordinary opportunity and experience the next several months will be, I wanted to do more than simply donate money and gear to the local population upon my trip’s completion as I normally do. Fortunately, I have Carla to help me transform these good intentions into action.
She has been coordinating with Ang Jangbu, who will be the Sirdar (head Sherpa) of my expedition, in Nepal, to whom we will be donating school supplies (crayons, pencils, notebooks), clothing and medical supplies for the children in the villages of the Khumbu Valley. These are the villages that I will visit on the way to Everest base camp and also where many of the Sherpas that will be assisting on the climb reside, so we wanted to show our respect, admiration and appreciation in advance.
Carla’s hospital is donating medical supplies and many of her co-workers are donating school supplies and/or cold weather kids clothing, and we are excited about what we have already gathered. It is getting close to departure time (March 16th — only 2 1/2 weeks away), but I wanted to let you know of our intentions so if anyone is interested in donating anything we will happily deliver your contributions upon our arrival in Kathmandu.
Please let me know if you are interested and I will coordinate a time with you to pick-up your donation if you are in the Denver area. For those of you that do not live in the Denver area but would like to participate, please contact me and we will try to find a way to make that happen. Thank you, in advance, for any donations and also for your continued interest in the trip.
Green Mountain – 2.19.2012
Due to continued extreme avalanche danger in CO these days, I stayed close to home and at lower, more stable elevations. I did a quick training hike with great friend, Ben Focht, this past weekend. Ben will join me for the trek into Everest base camp and will also climb the 20,161′ Lobuche Peak with me and the team, prior his returning home, as part of our acclimatization program in Nepal in preparation for the big hill.
It was a quick and easy hike to the summit of Green Mountain (8,144′) above Boulder, CO, requiring only 3 hours for the entire outing, which includes roughly 2,500′ of elevation gain and then descent over a total of six miles for the entire round trip. Therefore, we made it more interesting by loading 40-50lbs in our packs to add to the challenge/work-out, and I climbed much of the way wearing the same model mask as the oxygen regulators we’ll use on the upper slopes of Everest (seen above). It definitely made it more difficult to breathe. It was a bit like running underwater or breathing with a plastic bag over your head. Good practice though, as it’s a lot like breathing through a diving regulator, so it trains you to breath deeply, steadily and prepares your diaphragm to pull hard in anticipation of what’s to come a few months from now when the stakes will be a bit higher.
The best part of the outing was when Ben announced to a passing hiker that I was wearing the mask because I had SARS. The poor guy nearly fell over trying to get away from me as quickly as possible and likely needed a fresh pair of underwear at the bottom of the hill. His female companion seemed to enjoy the joke a bit more than he did… our apologies, sir. A few more pictures of the outing available by clicking the picture above.
Skiing Breckenridge – 2.11.2012
Training continues, although recently training has consisted of strength training and cardio work-outs at the gym as I work through gear and logistical details for the upcoming trip. As such, I haven’t spent as much time as I’ve wanted in the actual mountains, mostly due to an unstable snow pack and high avalanche danger, but I hope to get in more actual climbing in the weeks ahead.
Carla and I depart for India for phase I of the trip on March 16th, which is rapidly approaching (only 4 weeks away), so getting everything dialed-in now is paramount. I meet the rest of the Everest expedition team in Kathmandu on 3/29 to begin phase II of the trip — the climb itself…
Carla and I went home to visit my parents the weekend of 2/2/2012 and also celebrated the one-year anniversary of our first date, which was a major milestone for this perpetual bachelor. We had a really nice time with my folks and enjoyed weather in the 70s and even a few strolls on the beach, which provided quite the contrast to what lies ahead.
This past weekend, my best friend growing-up, Joey Suttle, came to visit. We went to Widespread’s farewell (for now) acoustic “Wood Tour” on Friday and then skied at Breckenridge on Saturday. It was a short weekend, but it’s always great to catch-up with close friends, especially prior to a big trip like this. It seems to help me keep things in perspective, while also serving as a reminder of what a major undertaking this particular trip is going to be. Thanks for coming out, Joe.